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Care Sheets

Crested & Gargoyle Geckos

Crested Geckos and Gargoyle Geckos are native to New Caledonia off the coast of Australia. They were previously thought to be extinct due to invasive red ants, until their remarkable rediscovery back in 2005. These species can live up to 20 years in captivity. They enjoy climbing and jumping, they are also nocturnal which means they are most active during the night.

 

The scientific name for a Crested gecko is: Correlophus Ciliatus.

The scientific name for a Gargoyle gecko is: Rhacodactylus Auriculatus.

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Crested geckos and Gargoyle geckos are pretty similar. They require the same needs as each other. The main difference between them is that Gargoyle geckos get bigger than crested geckos. Gargoyle geckos also feel different to Crested geckos and they have small knobs on their head. (Hence the name Gargoyle) Another difference between the two species is that Gargoyle geckos can fully regenerate their tails, whereas Crested geckos can only grow short stubs back but will never grow their full tail back. 

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Lighting

  • Crested geckos and Gargoyle geckos require lighting to determine the difference between day and night.

  • You don't technically need to use UVB, however if you were to include UVB it would be a T5 5-7% UVB tube. the use of UVB acts as a form of natural vitamin D3 for the reptiles. Keep in mind if UVB is being use the geckos diet must not contain synthetic D3. Only use products that contain synthetic D3 if you are not providing a UVB light. Even though they are nocturnal and like to hide during the day its nice to be able to offer natural D3, but its down to personal preference.

  • Lighting must include a 15w jungle dawn LED bar. This is mainly for the plants in a bioactive setup to aid plant growth. This light will also help the reptile distinguish the difference between day and night.

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 Heating

  • In the UK our winter months can drop quite rapidly which means you will need to include a small heat mat on one side of the enclosure to create a hot side.

  • An alternative is to use a halogen heat bulb on a thermostat. (the thermostat should be set to the correct temperature.) Ensure the enclosure isn't too hot as this could cause problems for the reptile.

  • The best and safest way of providing heat is via a heat mat.

  • Ensure that you have included and thermometer and hygrometer to show that the temperature and humidity are correct within the enclosure.

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Food

  • Pangia fruit mix gives the best reaction from these species.

  • Repashy is a form of fruit based diet, however a lot of geckos tend to not eat this, and seem to prefer the Habistat brand instead.

  • Arcadia sticky foot gold fruit mix seems to give high reactions and geckos love it!

  • Arcadia jelly pots are natural fruits and do not contain synthetic D3.

  • Adults should be fed 2-3 times weekly and juveniles should be fed each day.

  • These reptiles are mainly fruit eaters however ensure to offer small crickets or worms dusted in calcium every so often. This is to provide our animals with a variety for their diet.

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Enclosure

​It is important that the reptile has the correct enclosure size tailored to their size and behaviour.

  • Babies: Only need a small container.

  • Juveniles: Need a 45x45x45cm enclosure.

  • Adults: Ensure all adults are offered a 45x45x60cm enclosure as these reptiles prefer height over width.

  • Ensure to include lots of real/fake plants to provide foliage and coverage, it will also create dark spots within the setup. Include cork bark, spider wood and fake for the reptile to climb on and create natural hides. Including cork bark tubes is a great way for reducing stress within the animal as they have safe spaces to run away to.

  • Including fake décor is great as it provides extra aesthetic to the setup and provides more for the gecko to climb around and into.

  • All enclosures must include hides and foliage.

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Handling

  • Hatchlings are known to be quite jumpy and skittish. They are super quick and love to jump about, it can be difficult to try and keep them still. If handling you must go slow as fast movement tends to set them off.

  • These geckos are known for jumping whilst being handled, try to encourage this behaviour because it is natural for these geckos to want to do this. The best way to be able to tell if a gecko is about to jump is by examining their legs. They tend to tense their back legs before jumping, this indicator allows the person handling the gecko to know when they are about to jump.

  • Geckos change colour, this is natural and is called firing up & down. Do not be alarmed when seeing geckos changing colour as they do this all the time and is normal behaviour.

  • These geckos love to let their faeces out whilst being handled and out of their environment. So don't be surprised if the gecko does this on you. If this happens, calmly let the gecko back into its environment and wash your hands thoroughly.

  • Remember to place your hand in front of the gecko and try not to pick them up from above. Your hand should go in front of the gecko and let them climb onto you or try using the scooping method and gently touch their feet which will result in making them climb onto your hand. Be careful when trying to pick the reptile up as you don't want to cause any stress within the animal. Never hold them by the tail.

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Humidity

  • Humidity is vital for Crested geckos and Gargoyle geckos. They require 50%-70% humidity.

  • Enclosures should be misted at least 2x a day. This can be archived by using a mist spray bottle or you can use products like the Mist King to set up a cycle to mist the tanks on a timer at a set time each day. Misting plants will allow the gecko to drink the water droplets. Keep in mind that if real plants are being used you will need to water the soil every so often to keep the plants hydrated and healthy. Plants will start to droop and look lifeless if they are suffering from a lack of water.

  • Another way to increase the humidity within an enclosure is to use a humidifier on a slow setting. These work great in boosting humidity within an enclosure and will create a morning fog effect within the setup. This is enrichment for the animals too!

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Temperature

  • Crested geckos and Gargoyle geckos don't require too much heat. Our summer months in the UK are perfect however our winter months are not. Heating options will have to be included for the winter months.

  • Temperature within the enclosure should be between 21C to 24C. Temperatures that exceed this temperature can cause problems and should be monitored.

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Substrate

  • The best to use is Arcadia earth mix.

  • You can use coco fibre.

  • Spagma moss is usable and helps keep the moisture within the setup.

  • Dead leaves can be used in setups for the isopods.

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Leopard Geckos

Crested & Gargoyle
Leopard Geckos

Leopard geckos originate from Afghanistan, Pakistan Iran and into India.

Their scientific name is Eublepharis Macularius.

Unlike other species of geckos, Leopard geckos are equipped with the ability to move their eyelids.

Adult Leopard geckos can range between 7-10 inches and can reach between 45g - 100g. Tanks too big for the size of the Leopard gecko can cause stress and result in failure to find adequate food and water.

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Heating & Temperature

  • Temperature must be kept at 30C - 32C. (This is the requirement for the hot side of the enclosure.)

  • Temperatures on the cold side of the enclosure must reach at least 26C. The temperature can drop lower but do not let the temperature reach any lower than 24C.

  • Heat mats are the best form of heating for Leopard geckos. It's also the cheapest option. You will need a 6" x 11" 7w heat mat and a mat stat to control the temperature of the heat mat. You will need to set the temperature on the stat to prevent the temperature exceeding the maximum heat amount. Ensure to place the heat mat on the hot side of the enclosure. The heat mat should cover a 3rd of the enclosure. The stat prop will need to be located on top of the mat in order for that stat to turn off at the desired temperature.

  • You will also need to include a thermometer with a probe to be able visually see what the temperature within the enclosure is. The probe should be located on the desired heat spot.

  • An alternative for heating would be to use a halogen bulb for the day time and a black ceramic bulb for during the night. In addition you will need to run these bulbs on a dimming thermostat. You will then need  to set the desired temperatures and plug the 2 into timers so they change between a day bulb to a night bulb. However this way is a lot more expensive and can be harder to maintain the correct temperatures.

  • You do not need to provide heat lamps if you are providing heat mats.

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Food

  • Babies and sub adults must be offered food each day.

  • Do not feed wild caught insects! They must be captive bred only. This is to prevent any infections or diseases they may get from any wild insects.

  • Squishy packets under Leopard gecko arms suggest that the gecko is being fed too much calcium. Cut back on dusting live feed.

  • A geckos tail is the best gauge to tell how healthy the gecko is. A good healthy gecko should have a chunky tail. But all other body parts should not start to look floppy or unproportionate to the tail.

  • Always have a water dish in the enclosure 24/7. Ensure to give fresh water each day!

  • Provide a small calcium dish so that the Leopard gecko can get calcium at anytime.

  • Housing insects should be kept in appropriate non escapable tubs/cricket keepers. All insects should be gut loaded before giving to the Leopard gecko and they should be fed 2x a week.

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Substrate

  • When it comes down to substrate it's frowned upon to use sand as they do not live on sand in the wild. They actually live on rocky grasslands.

  • Substrates usable are: Paper towels, reptile carpet, slate and rocks. The best substrate to use though is Arcadia earth mix arid or eco earth. You could use organic earth with play sand mixed in, just do not use sand on it's own.

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Hides

  • It is important to provide Leopard geckos with hiding spots, this will create safe areas for the geckos.

  • Provide at least 3 hides located around the enclosure.

  • You can also include a moist hide to aid your gecko whilst shedding.

  • Cork bark is great to create realistic hideaways. In addition, it allows geckos to climb onto.

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Decoration

  • The more  decoration the better. This is to create plenty of safe spots to reduce stress in the gecko. Fake/real plants can be provided to create foliage and dark spots in the setup. Rocks create a natural background and can be stacked to allow geckos to climb up. Cork bark and other branches work great too.

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Handling

  • Leopard geckos are pretty docile and hardy animals, however they can still bite. Biting is usually due to stressor being scared. The main reason for Leopard gecko bites is when a gecko mistakes your finger as food. An easy way to avoid this is to feed using tongs.

  • It really helps to approach a gecko side on and not from above to prevent the gecko from getting stressed. By approaching from the side you are taming the gecko to be held, if you were to go from above they could mistake you for a predator and can result in a bite and/or a tail being dropped.

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Humidity

  • In the wild they are found in dry areas.

  • Heat naturally decreases humidity.

  • Under 50% humidity within the enclosure.

  • Moist/humid hide can be provided for aiding the shedding process.

  • If the gecko is seen soaking itself in the water dish it can indicate that the temperature in the enclosure is too high. In the worst case it could be mites.

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Enclosure

  • Babies: Only need a small container.

  • Sub adults: Will only require a 2ft wide vivarium.

  • Adults:: Require a 3ft wide vivarium once they get to a good size and showing behavioural signs that it has outgrown its environment.

  • Important to get the enclosure size correct to the size of the animal to reduce and prevent stress.

  • Using a vivarium will keep the heat in as opposed to using a mesh topped enclosure which will let the heat leave the enclosure.

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Lighting

  • They will need a form of lighting to distinguish day and night. You can achieve this by using a jungle dawn LED bar, this works really well in Leopard geckos setups and will help them tell the difference between day and night.

  • UVB does not technically need to be used however it's a good option to allow the Leopard gecko to get natural D3. Keep in mind that if you are to use UVB you must not give your geckos synthetic D3 in it's diet. If you are not using UVB you must use calcium and magnesium containing synthetic D3 and other vitamins and minerals.

  • Do not use lights during the night as this is when your gecko is most active and can confuse the light with being daytime.

  • Do not use coloured light or coloured night lamps (red/blue) These bulbs are notorious for being disruptive to all types of geckos.

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Food & water

  • When keeping Leopard geckos it's important to keep a variety of foods. They are known to be picky eaters at times. By having a variety of insects to offer means you can always cater to their dietary needs especially if they decide they do not want a specific insect.

  • All insects must be dusted with calcium.

  • Insects that are part of the Leopard geckos diet are: Mealworms, Mario worms, Wax worms, Dubia roaches, Locusts, Brown & Black crickets.

  • Adults must be fed 2-3 times per week.

  • They enjoy climbing up and down arms when being handled, this is normal behaviour.

  • Keep in mind that rough handling can make the gecko scared and can result in a tail loss, they can also turn against you and decide you are not handling them how they want to be held. You may receive a bite from rough handling.

  • Do not get geckos out in front of other animals, especially cats and dogs.

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